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Sunday, November 13, 2011

Loja, Malacatos, Vilcabamba

As I mentioned in my previous blog entry, I travelled to Loja/Malacatos to get my Chevy Grand Vitara registered and title (Matricula) in my name.

Loja (Loh-hah), population approx 285,000, is about 200 kms (120 miles) from Cuenca.  Though we might typically calculate that to be a 2-hour drive, it's more like 3+ because of all the twist and turns and ups and downs of the highway that takes you there.  Loja holds a rich tradition in the arts, and for this reason is known as the Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador. The city is home to two major universities.  It is situated 2100 meters (6890 ft) above sea level, about 1,500 feet lower than Cuenca. It has a mild Andean climate.  At nearly 500 years, it is one of the oldest cities in Ecuador.

Malacatos (Mah-lah-cah-tohs) is a small town of only a few thousand located about 40 kms (25 miles) outside of Loja and before Vilcabamba.  Like almost every town in EC, it has the traditonal central square anchored by a lovely cathedral.  My friend Roberto, relocated here from Lima, Peru and built a cottage high above Malacatos with a commanding 180+ degree view.  I stayed with him the few days I was in the area.   He has a sweet new 2-month old Weimaraner puppy named Kleina and several guinea pigs.  At this point, the road leading up to his place and several other homes, is very rough, full of potholes, muddy, and you must drive thru 2 streams.  No sense washing your car...EVER.  Every time we drove up/down that road, I felt as if the GV was going to disintegrate into a pile of broken pieces.  As yet, there is no electricity to the area, so his house runs off a generator.   No gas for the generator, no electricity.  Roberto doesn't own a car.  He relies on pickup-truck taxi's.  Malacatos is surrounded by fields of palm, papaya, banana trees, and sugar cane.

Vilcabamba is a favorite relocation area for Ex-Pats because of it's warm, comfortable climate (about 5,000 ft), topographical beauty, and healthy living.  It, too, is a very quiet small town of only a few thousand, located 9 kms outside Malacatos.  There is nothing special about the typical village other than a few shops and restaurants obviously created and run by foreigners (obvious because of their trendy looks).  There is no major grocery store or real amenities here, just small tiendas.  For anything substantial such as theater, large markets, clothing stores, shopping, medical facilities, and/or large hardware stores one would probably rely on Loja which is a 45 minute drive away.  The valley is overlooked by a mountain called Mandango, the Sleeping Inca, whose presence is said to protect the area from earthquakes and other natural disasters.  It is often called the 'Valley of Longevity' because there are so many people who have lived to be over 100 years old there.  Organic is very big here.   Some people say Vilcabamba is very hippy-ish.

We went to one of a handful of nice resorts in the area, Izhcayluma, owned by a couple of German guys who relocated to the area over a decade ago and built this phenomenally beautiful sanctuary on a hill looking back, and down, to the village of Vilcabamba.  The setting is stunning with rock walkways that wind through beautiful flowers, shrubs, trees, and lawns....through the pool area, outdoor bar, and life-size chess game patio, and various cottages for the guests.    It also has an outdoor dining area with mesmerizing views of the hills and town below.  They have a couple of large lab dogs who hang out and greet visitors.

The next day, we came back to Vilcabamba to have lunch at Jardin Escondido, another wonderful escape with guest rooms, outdoor courtyard dining amongst orange trees, great food (cheap!) and the customary white and orange kitties that come up to greet you and beg for a petting.

After that, it was time for Gracie and I to head home....with Matricula in hand!!!!


In Loja...don't know what it is, but you can drive through it!


A church in one of Loja's squares.

The cathedral that anchors Malacatos central square.

The view from Robertos' hammock...down to the town of Malacatos (see the cathedral?)

A roadside stand selling sugar cane drinks.

The church that anchors Vilcabambas' central square.


Entrance to Izhcayluma resort.

Pathway leading down to the outdoor restaurant.

View of the town of Vilcabamba from the dining area of Izhcayluma.

Izhcaylumas' restaurant.

Outdoor bar, game area, hammocks.

A game of Chess, anyone?

Beautiful pool of Izhcayluma, surrounded by lush gardens and waterfalls.

Jardin Escondido in Vilcabamba, where we had lunch.

Their bathrooms.

Roberto and Kleina at Jardin Escondido.   I love how Kleina is just dangling without a care.

One of the dogs of Izhcayluma saying 'hi' to Roberto and Kleina.

On the drive home, a small town deeeeep in a valley.  Up and to the right of the church is (in white) a cemetary clinging to the side of the steep hill.  Notice how the hill soars upward behind the town.

Part of the highway slid down a steeeeep ravine.

I walked onto the portion of the highway taped off (see prior photo) and took this shot looking straight down the slide.   The road below is at least 1,000 feet down.  SCARRRRRRY!!!!!


  1. Hola Dano;

    When I was in Cuenca, my two friends and I took a day trip to Vilcabamba by Taxi. What an experience. I didn't see much, but from what I did see, Vilcabamba is a one horse town and the horse is probably dead. What I did see were several old hippies and a few younger ones. Where are you living in Cuenca? I'll look you up when I get back there in a few months.

    Hasta Luego

  2. I was in Vilcambamba in August 2013. Small, quiet, lovely. I could comfortably live there. New crepes restaurant in town, didn't try it. Retired and young American expats in town and also in the hills surrounding. I didn't care much for Loja though. Cuenca was nice, but not for me. If you've got a few bucks, rent a vehicle and drive through ALL of Ecuador.


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About Me

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Palma, Mallorca, Spain
This is all about my transition from an American lifestyle and culture to my newest adventure, life in Spain, in the city of Palma on the island of Mallorca in the middle of the Mediterranean sea!! I moved from the USA to Cuenca, Ecuador, South America and lived there for 7 years before moving here to Spain in early 2018. To read about my adventures in Ecuador, check out my other blog "Ahhh Cuenca!!". I'll be recapping some of my day-to-day experiences (and mishaps) to highlight what it's like to live in Europe....across the pond.

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